Hemma is the swedish word for home, which is just where you need these soft socks to snuggle up with a good book and a large cup of your favourite tea.
Hemma socks are two-colored socks with a cuff with three rows of contrasting bobbles, separated by purl rows. The heel is knitted in the contrasting color, just like the decorative purl row that’s marking the toes.
The socks are knitted top-down and the pattern is written for double pointed needles, though it would be easy to knit with magic loop instead if that’s your preference.
The pattern is for free and you can make as many pairs as you want for yourself and your near and dear, but you are not allowed to re-publish the pattern or any translations of it, though you are very welcome to link to it. You are not allowed to sell the pattern or any products made from it. You are not allowed to profit from the patterns in any way. If you have any questions you are very welcome to email me or comment below.
Yarn: Two colors of fingering weight yarn. 60 g of main color (referred to as MC) and 20 g of contrasting color (referred to as CC)
Gauge: 35 sts over 10 cm in stockinette
Needles: 2 mm double pointed needles or the size needed to acquire gauge
The pattern is written in one size, but it’s easy to lengthen or shorten if needed. If you have a lower instep you should make the heel flap shorter and if you need a larger or smaller circumference of the sock you can easily add or subtract a multiple of 6 sts to make the cuff pattern work. You also need to adjust the numbers but I’ve tried to make it as easy as possible to do the math yourself.
Long tail cast-on
Knit and purl stitches
SSK, K2TOG, P2TOG
Picking up stitches
Knitting through the back loop
Using long tail method or other preferred technique, cast on 66 stitches in CC over four dpns (17,16,17,16), with half of the stitches on the first two needles and the other half over the other two needles. Join to work in the round. Follow chart (found at the bottom of the page) or the written directions below. Do not break CC until you have finished the cuff.
1-2: Using CC, P all
3-5: Using MC, K all
6: [K1 in MC, MB in CC, K4 in MC] repeat until end of round
7-8: Using MC, K all
9: Using CC, K all
10: Using CC, P all
11-13: Using MC, K all
14: [K4 in MC, MB in CC, K1 in MC] repeat until end of round
15-16: Using MC, K all
17: Using CC, K all
18: Using CC, P all
19-21: Using MC, K all
22: [K1 in MC, MB in CC, K4 in MC] repeat until end of round
23-24: Using MC, K all
25: Using CC, K all
26-28: Using CC, P all
How to MB, Make Bobble:
1: K1 without dropping stitch from left needle, yarn over, K1 into the same stitch again and now drop the stitch from the left needle, turn (increased 2 sts)
2: P3, turn
3: K2, pull second stitch on the right needle over the first, slip stitch from right needle to left needle and pull second stitch on the left needle over the first stitch, and slip remaining stitch to right needle again (decreased 2 sts)
Leg and heel:
K in MC until leg measures 12 cm from CO edge or until desired length.
K50 in MC and change to CC for heel (but do not break MC). The following segment will be worked flat over half of the stitches.
K33 sts, turn
Next row (WS): Slip 1 as if to purl (with yarn in front), [K1,P1] until end of row
Next row (RS): Slip 1 as if to knit (with yarn in back), [P1,K1] until end of row
Repeat these two rows until the heel flap measures 8 cm and end with a WS row.
K19, SSK, K1, turn
Slip 1 as if to purl, P6, P2TOG, P1, turn
Next row: Slip 1 as if to purl, K to 1 stitch before the gap created in the turn in the previous row, SSK (using one stitch from each side of the gap), K1, turn
Next row: Slip 1 as if to knit, P to 1 stitch before the gap created in the turn in the previous row, P2TOG (using one stitch from each side of the gap), P1, turn.
Repeat these two rows until you have worked all stitches. (You will not be able to knit or purl the last stitches of the last two rows, so just turn instead.)
K the remaining 19 sts and break yarn.
Return to your MC. This is your new beginning of round.
Pick up stitches along the left side of the heel flap, K all heel sts and pick up along the right side of the heel flap(making sure to pick up the same number of stitches on both sides), K until the end of round.
K1 round, but knit the picked up stitches through the back loop to make them twisted, preventing holes. During this round, you should also place markers on both sides between the 6th and 7th stitch, counting from the heel stitches. You should now have 31 sts between your markers (2 sts less than half of your original amount of sts).
Before starting next round, count the number of picked up sts above the marker on either of the sides. Follow either of the instructions, depending on whether you had an odd or even number.
Even: K2, [P1,K1] to marker, slip marker, K to next marker, slip marker, [K1,P1] until 2 picked up sts remain, K to end of round
Odd: [K1,P1] to 1 stitch from marker, K1, slip marker, K to next marker, slip marker, [K1,P1] until 1 picked up stitch remain, K to end of round
Gusset decrease round: Knit in established pattern (K the knit stitches and P the purl stitches), until 2 sts remain before marker, K2TOG, slip marker, K until marker, slip marker, SSK, knit in established pattern until end of round. (decreased 2 sts)
Next round: Knit in established pattern, and slip the markers as you come to them.
Repeat these last two rounds until 1 gusset stitch remain above each marker. Remove markers and knit in MC until sock measures 19 cm from heel or 4,5 cm less than desired finished length.
Join CC but do not break MC.
Next round: K all sts.
Next round: K33, P33
Repeat this last round 2 more times and break CC.
Toe decrease round: K1, SSK, K until 3 sts of the previously knit stitches remain, K2TOG, K2, SSK, K until 3 sts of the previously purled stitches remain, K2TOG, K1
Next round: K all sts
Repeat these two rounds until 34 stitches remain (17 sts for the top of the foot and 17 sts for the bottom), then knit toe decrease round until 18 sts remain (9 top and 9 bottom), and bind off using kitchener stitch.
Weave in ends and block if needed, and of course – make second sock :)