pug socks – en

I adapted this pattern from my Kitty Socks pattern. This pattern is written for one size only. If you want to make them for another stitch count you will have to re-work the charts by yourself.

Please link your project on Ravelry! You can find the pattern page HERE.

The sock starts with a rib, that you later hide by folding it in and knitting it together with the stockinette of the pug’s face. The face markings are knitted with intarsia or if you prefer using duplicate stitch after the sock is finished (pattern is written for intarsia). To make the ears you knit in a piece of scrap yarn that you pick up and knit after the sock is finished.

The pattern is free and you can make as many pairs as you want for yourself and your near and dear, but you are not allowed to re-publish the pattern or any translations of it, though you are very welcome to link to it. You are not allowed to sell the pattern or any products made from it. You are not allowed to profit from the pattern in any way. If you have any questions you are very welcome to email me or comment below.

What you need:
Needles: 2 mm dpns, and a couple of extra needles in the same size or smaller to pick up stitches from scrap yarn.
Yarn: Fingering weight sock yarn in two colors. For me, each sock weighs around 30 g, so one skein of 50 g of each main color if you want to mismatch your pair. You will also need some scrap yarn to embroider the puggy’s face and scrap yarn for the provisional cast on and to hold the ears stitches. I recommend a thin mercerised cotton that doesn’t stick to the stitches.

You also need some stitch markers and a darning needle.

Cuff/Face
Provisionally cast on 64 sts on dpns using scrap yarn. Join to work in the round and with your main color, knit a 2×2 rib for 24 rounds.
Important note for magic loopers: Since this pattern places the beginning of the round in the center back, you will (probably) either have to move your stitches around when you knit the heel, or place the ears differently. Make sure to read through the pattern and decide what works best for you!

Purl one round and then follow the 32 stitch diagram below over needles 2 and 3. The stitches on needle 1 and 4 are knitted in stockinette. Through rounds 6-18 you will have to knit intarsia in the round. If you are unsure how to do this I recommend looking at instructional videos on YouTube. I think THIS ONE by planetpurl is very good.

Clarification for row 1:
K16 in main color, K11 in scrap yarn, turn, P11 in scrap yarn, turn, K21 in main color, K11 in scrap yarn, turn, P11 in scrap yarn, turn, K27 in main color.

When you have knitted the diagram, fasten any loose ends from the intarsia. Fold the ribbing to the inside of the stockinette part and pick up the stitches from the provisional cast on using your extra needles. Make sure that all of your picked up stitches lean the right way.
Work the next round using your main needle size by knitting together the first stitch from the original dpns together with the first of your cast on stitches. If you are unsure on how to do this, I recommend searching youtube for “knit together from two needles”. From now on your pug’s face might scrunch up a bit, but it all stretches out when you wear them!

Knit 4 rounds in a third color if you want your pug to have a necklace, and then Knit 5 rounds in your main color.

Heel flap
K16 and turn to work heel flap. Do not break your main color. Attach your second color to work heel.

Row 1 (ws): Slip stitch with the yarn in the front of the work, P31, turn
Row 2 (rs): *Slip stitch with the yarn in the back of the work, K1* repeat until end of row, turn

Repeat these two rows 15 times more, until you have worked them a total of 16 times.
Tip: To keep count, I like to count the floats created on the ws by the slipped stitches.

Work Row 1 once more.

Heel turn and gusset
Slip 1 stitch, K17, SSK, K1, turn
Slip 1 stitch, P5, P2TOG, P1, turn
Slip 1 stitch, K6, SSK, K1, turn
Slip 1 stitch, P7, P2TOG, P1, turn

Continue in this manner until all of the stitches have been worked. On the last turn on each side, you won’t be able to work the last stitch after the decrease. Just do the decrease and turn.
You now have 18 heel stitches left.
K18 and break yarn.

Return to your main color and K32, pick up one stitch in the little gap between the needles, pick up 16 sts from the side of the heel flap, K18, pick up 16 sts from the other side of the heel flap and pick up one more stitch in the little gap between the needles. You now have 84 sts.

Next round: K32, K11TBL, plac marker, K6TBL, K18, K6TBL, place marker, K11TBL
The stitches that are knitted through the back loop are done so to minimize the risk of gaps where you picked up the stitches.

Next round: K32, SSK, [P1, K1] until one stitch before marker, P1, slip marker, K to marker, slip marker, [P1,K1] until 3 sts before end of needle (/end of picked up sts), P1, K2TOG

Next round: Work in established pattern, that is knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches. The decreases should be knitted.

Decrease round: K32, SSK, work in established pattern to marker, slip marker, K to marker, slip marker, work in established pattern until 2 sts remain on needle, K2TOG

Repeat the last two rounds until you have 64 sts left, that is until only 1 stitch remains “above” each marker.

You are now back to your original stitch count. Remove markers and knit in stockinette until you reach your desired length of the foot. I usually knit around 15 cm/6″ from the beginning of the gusset, or until the fabric reaches the base of my little toe.

Toe
Break main color and knit one round in second color.
Decrease round: *K1, SSK, K to end of needle, K until 3 sts remain on the needle, K2TOG, K1* repeat once

Next round: K all stitches.

Repeat these two rounds until you have 8 sts per needle (32 sts in total), then work only the decrease round until you have 4 sts per needle (16 in total).
Break yarn, leaving a long enough tail to graft toe.
Arrange stitches over two needles and bind off using kitchener stitch.

Ears and face
The ears are worked one at a time.
Pick up the stitches left on the scrap yarn and place on 2 dpns. You’ll have 11 stitches on the front needle and 11 stitches on the back needle. Attatch  second color yarn and knit 2 rounds, starting with the front needle

Left Ear (from pugs perspective)
Next round: K9, K2TOG, SSK, K9 (20 sts left)
Next round: K all sts
Next round: K8, K2TOG, SSK, K8 (18 sts left)
Next round: K all sts
Next round: K7, K2TOG, SSK, K7 (16 sts left)
Next round: K all sts
Next round: K6, K2TOG, SSK, K6 (14 sts left)
Next round: K5, K2TOG, SSK, K5 (12 sts left)
Next round: K4, K2TOG, SSK, K4 (10 sts left)
Next round: *SSK, K1, K2TOG* repeat once (6 sts left)
Next round: *Lift the first 2 sts as if to K2TOG, K1, slip the 2 lifted stitches over this stitch* repeat once (2 sts left)
Break yarn and pull through the live sts.

Right Ear (from pugs perspective)
Next round: SSK, K18, K2TOG (20 sts left)
Next round: K all sts
Next round: SSK, K16, K2TOG (18 sts left)
Next round: K all sts
Next round: SSK, K14, K2TOG (16 sts left)
Next round: K all sts
Next round: SSK, K12, K2TOG (14 sts left)
Next round: SSK, K10, K2TOG (12 sts left)
Next round: SSK, K8, K2TOG (10 sts left)
Next round: *SSK, K1, K2TOG* repeat once (6 sts left)
Next round: *Lift the first 2 sts as if to K2TOG, K1, slip the 2 lifted stitches over this stitch* repeat once (2 sts left)
Break yarn and pull through the live sts.

Use the loose ends at the tips of the ears to tack down respective ear a few stitches to the side of the eye markings and weave in all loose ends.

Embroider face with yarn of a similar quality, and remember to use something doesn’t felt if you intend to wash the socks in the machine!

Please send me questions if you have any, and I’ll try to answer them the best I can!