This pattern is written for one size only, but since you can make kitty sock from most vanilla top-down patterns, I’ll write a little bit about how you can make the kitty face with another stitch count in the end of this post.
Please link your project on Ravelry! You can find the pattern page HERE!
The sock starts with a rib, that you later hide by folding it in and knitting it together with the stockinette of the kitty’s face. To make the ears you knit in a piece of scrap yarn that you pick up and knit after the sock is finished.
The pattern is free and you can make as many pairs as you want for yourself and your near and dear, but you are not allowed to re-publish the pattern or any translations of it, though you are very welcome to link to it. You are not allowed to sell the pattern or any products made from it. You are not allowed to profit from the pattern in any way. If you have any questions you are very welcome to email me or comment below.
What you need:
Needles: 2 mm dpns, and a couple of extra needles in the same size or smaller to pick up stitches from scrap yarn.
Yarn: Fingering weight sock yarn. For me, each sock weighs 30 g, so one skein of 50 g of each color if you want to mismatch. You will also need some scraps to embroider the kitty’s face and scrap yarn for the provisional cast on and to hold the ears stitches. I recommend a thin mercerised cotton that doesn’t stick to the stitches.
You also need some stitch markers and a darning needle.
Provisionally cast on 64 sts on dpns using scrap yarn. Join to work in the round and with your main color, knit a 2×2 rib for 5 cm/2″ or your preferred length for the kitty’s face.
Important note for magic loopers: Since this pattern places the beginning of the round in the center back, you will (probably) either have to move your stitches around when you knit the heel, or place the ears differently. Make sure to read through the pattern and decide what works best for you!
Next round, ear setup: P16, *K7 sts in scrap yarn, turn and P7, break scrap yarn and turn. Return to the main color and K7 (yes, the ones in scrap yarn)*, P18, and repeat * *, P16.
K in stockinette for 5 cm/2″ or until it matches the length of your ribbing. Fold the ribbing to the inside of the stockinette part and pick up the stitches from the provisional cast on using your extra needles. Make sure that all of your picked up stitches lean the right way.
Work the next round using your main needle size by knitting together the first stitch from the original dpns together with the first of your cast on stitches. If you are unsure on how to do this, I recommend searching youtube for “knit together from two needles”. From now on your kitty’s face might scrunch up a bit, but it all stretches out when you wear them!
K3 rounds in a contrasting color if you want your kitty to have a necklace, and then knit for 1,5 cm/ 5/8″ in your main color.
K16 and turn to work heel flap.
Row 1 (ws): Slip stitch with the yarn in the front of the work, P31, turn
Row 2 (rs): *Slip stitch with the yarn in the back of the work, K1* repeat until end of row, turn
Repeat these two rows 15 times more, until you have worked them a total of 16 times.
Tip: To keep count, I like to count the floats created on the ws by the slipped stitches.
Work Row 1 once more.
Heel turn and gusset
Slip 1 stitch, K17, SSK, K1, turn
Slip 1 stitch, P5, P2TOG, P1, turn
Slip 1 stitch, K6, SSK, K1, turn
Slip 1 stitch, P7, P2TOG, P1, turn
Continue in this manner until all of the stitches have been worked. On the last turn on each side, you won’t be able to work the last stitch after the decrease. Just do the decrease and turn.
You now have 18 heel stitches left.
K9 to what once again will be the beginning of your round.
Next round: K9, pick up 16 sts from the side of the heel flap, pick up one more stitch in the little gap between the needles, K32, pick up one stitch in the little gap between the needles, pick up 16 sts from the other side of the heel flap, K9 sts. You now have 84 sts.
Next round: K9, K6TBL, place marker, K11TBL, K32, K11TBL, place marker, K6TBL,K9.
The stitches that are knitted through the back loop are done so to minimize the risk of gaps where you picked up the stitches.
Next round: K to marker, slip marker, [P1,K1] until 3 sts before end of needle (/end of picked up sts), P1, K2TOG, K32, SSK, [P1,K1] until one stitch before marker, P1, slip marker, K to end of round.
Work one round in the established pattern, that is knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches. The decreases should be knitted.
Decrease round: K to marker, slip marker, work in established pattern until 2 sts remain of the needle, K2TOG, K32, SSK, work in established pattern to marker, slip marker, K to end of round.
Repeat the last two rounds until you have 64 sts left, that is until only 1 stitch remains “above” each marker.
You are now back to your original stitch count. Remove markers and knit in stockinette until you reach your desired length of the foot. I usually knit around 15 cm/6″ from the beginning of the gusset, or until the fabric reaches the base of my little toe.
Decrease round: *K until 3 sts remain on the needle, K2TOG, K2, SSK, K to end of needle* repeat
Next round: K all stitches.
Repeat these two rounds until you have 8 sts per needle (32 sts in total), then work only the decrease round until you have 4 sts per needle (16 in total).
K4 sts and break yarn, leaving a long enough tail to graft toe.
Arrange stitches over two needles and bind off using kitchener stitch.
Ears and face
The ears are worked one at a time.
Pick up the stitches left on the scrap yarn and place on 2 dpns. You’ll have 7 stitches on the front needle and 7 stitches on the back needle. Attach yarn and knit 2 rounds.
Next round: *SSK, K3, K2TOG* repeat once (10 sts left)
Next round: K all sts
Next round: *SSK , K1, K2TOG* repeat once (6 sts left)
Next round: K all sts
Next round: *Lift the first 2 sts as if to K2TOG, K1, slip the 2 lifted stitches over this stitch* repeat once (2 sts left)
Break yarn and pull through the live sts.
Repeat for other ear and weave in all of the ends.
Embroider face with yarn of a similar quality, and remember to use something that doesn’t felt if you intent to wash the socks in the machine!
I you want to use another stitch count for your sock you will have to do the math yourself, but there are a lot of guides on what numbers to use for a regular “heel flap and gusset” type of heel, and many other sort of heels. Short row heels, for example. If you use another stitch count you might have to adapt the number of stitches for the ears. This also goes for those who might want to make the ears bigger or smaller. In this pattern I made the ears on just under a fourth of half of the original number of stitches (so (Original Number/2)/4). To make the ears nice and pointy I chose to use an odd number of stitches, which is important if you want to use the same decreases as in this pattern.
Please send me questions if you have any, and I’ll try to answer them the best I can!